WHO GETS TO MAKE FASHION?

We talk a lot about what fashion looks like. But how often do we ask who gets to make it? And under what conditions?

At Simply Diligent (formerly Simply Suzette), fashion has always been more than fabric and form. It's a system of relationships. A chain of decisions. A reflection of who holds the power and who doesn’t. That’s why we’re turning our focus to something that could quietly shift the foundation of the entire industry: social procurement.

Social procurement is the practice of using purchasing power to support businesses that create meaningful social value.

This could mean working with a refugee-led sewing unit. Sourcing cotton from farms that rebuild soil health and local economies. Partnering with a weaving collective that preserves cultural techniques while offering stable livelihoods. We've spoken about it before on the blog here and here.

We've continued learning since those articles were published, so I wanted to share an update on the thoughts we shared in Milan and at Denim PV a couple weeks ago. 

Social procurement, to us, is a way of building supply chains that do more than minimize harm. They create lasting good for people and the planet. At its core, social procurement expands our definition of impact. It asks us to think about not just what we are buying, but who we are buying from. It centers on the idea that people at the heart of production deserve to be valued, not just measured.

This approach also challenges the idea that transformation only comes from the top. Change is already happening in the margins. In small businesses, on farms, inside quietly radical factories that prioritize dignity, equity, and care.

We’re seeing more and more brands redefining what it means to work ethically and collaboratively.

Mother of Pearl has always been vocal about the need for transparency in fashion. But what really sets them apart is how they work with artisan communities, especially women’s groups in India and Peru. These aren’t one-off seasonal collaborations. They are long-term partnerships built on fair wages, capacity building, and co-creation. That means artisans are not just executing someone else’s vision, they are shaping it. Through this, they are helping protect entire craft ecosystems. Their supply chain supports local employment, uplifts women entrepreneurs, and challenges the idea that traditional craft should come cheap.

Outland Denim’s story started with anti-trafficking activism, but what they’ve built goes much deeper. Their factory in Cambodia is designed around human dignity. They train and employ women who have experienced exploitation, offering not just jobs but also language skills, financial literacy, and real pathways to leadership. Every garment sold helps sustain this model. It is a clear example of social procurement in action, where the product and the people behind it are always connected.

Cloth & Co. is an Australian brand working in close partnership with Indigenous and rural women in India. Many of their artisans are natural dyers, weavers, and block printers using plant-based techniques. What stands out is how the brand respects local rhythms. They do not impose strict production deadlines. Instead, they work within the flow of community life, honoring rituals, seasonality, and caregiving responsibilities. The result is flexible, dignified work that keeps women rooted in their culture and connected to their land.

Story MFG is all about growing together. They collaborate with artisan groups in India, Thailand, and other regions to revive practices like handloom weaving and ferment-based indigo dyeing. But they do not stop at preserving tradition. They co-develop new techniques with the people they work with. Over time, these relationships have helped create stable income for entire communities. Their approach values people, patience, and process. For young artisans, it means there is a reason to stay and build a future within their community.

And you do not need to be a global brand to get started, as the above examples clearly demonstrate. Maybe you are a designer working with a values-aligned factory. A buyer asking questions about traceability. A product developer seeking out fabrics with a social story behind them. Small steps still shift systems.

Ask yourself: Who are you employing through your decisions? What are you enabling? Whose future are you shaping?

When you change who makes your clothes, you change what your clothes stand for. Purpose does not need a campaign when it is embedded in every part of the process.

We’re inviting brands, mills, and makers to start asking different questions. Not just about materials or emissions, but about relationships. Who are you in community with? Whose future are you helping to build?

Let’s shape a version of fashion where every product reflects shared care, not just good design. Where the next generation of tastemakers values not only aesthetics but accountability. Because how we make fashion matters just as much as how it looks.

Until next time, always be curious and stay diligent friends x